A number of high-end steakhouses have sprung up across the country over the past 15 years. Among those in Boston is Abe & Louie’s, open since 1998. If you’re hungering for some good American food, Abe & Louie’s, on Boylston Street in Boston, is where to find classic American dishes, prime-aged beef and extra-large portions.
Abe & Louie’s decor has been designed with a nod to early 20th-century elegance. There’s plenty of mahogany, leather and brass, which gives the interior a decidedly masculine ambiance. But there’s nothing stuffy about Abe & Louie’s. The atmosphere is relaxed and lively. Even on a Sunday evening, the place was packed. You should make reservations to avoid a wait.
One of the delights of our visit to Abe & Louie’s was our server, Bill. Personable and knowledgeable, he showed infinite patience with our lengthy contemplation of the menu and guided us through the finer points of the many different cuts of beef.
Solely on Bill’s recommendation, we ordered the jumbo lump crab cake ($15). Given that I had just told my dining companion that I had come to regard crab cakes as a tired restaurant cliche, this was certainly a testimony to Bill’s powers of persuasion. The dish was proof that you should always solicit servers’ recommendations when ordering. Abe & Louie’s crab cake was the best I’ve ever tasted. Made with huge lumps of fresh crabmeat, without any breading or filler, it was perfectly pan-seared and served with a fresh mango salsa and a spectacular, homemade remoulade. I’d return to Abe & Louie’s just for that.
The menu lists several interesting salads, but we went with the classic steakhouse choice: Caesar salad ($8). It was a very large serving of crisp romaine, tangy house-made dressing, shaved parmesan, and freshly baked croutons.
Although the menu lists several seafood entrees, as well as lamb chops, veal chops and a whole crispy chicken, beef is definitely the star of the show here, with 10 choices.
On Bill’s recommendation, we ordered the 24 ounce, bone-in rib eye steak ($42) and the slow-roasted, boneless prime rib of beef ($43). It was the same cut of beef, he assured us, and we would find it interesting how the different cooking methods determined the flavor of the finished dish.
Both of the entrees were memorable and cooked just as ordered. The rib eye steak was tender and juicy, with a flavorful, caramelized exterior. It was served with a terrific bearnaise sauce. The prime rib was extra-thick and very tender, served with a fantastic horseradish sauce.
Side dishes are always highlights of steakhouse dining. We ordered hash browns ($8) and the creamed spinach ($8). The potatoes appeared to be deep-fried grated potatoes, not pan-sauteed as the menu promised. The spinach was unseasoned, with cream that could have used a longer reduction. This was the only disappointment of our meal at Abe & Louie’s.
The dessert menu offers tempting choices, such as a colossal, seven-layer chocolate cake ($8), fresh-baked apple pie ($8), and fresh strawberries dipped in imported dark chocolate ($10). But I had to have the chocolate souffle ($9). I wish more restaurants would serve souffles, but they must be made to order and I guess most places feel it is just too much trouble. My chocolate souffle was perfectly baked, rich and dense. It was accompanied by a delicious raspberry sauce. My only suggestion would be to add a little whipped cream or creme anglaise to offset the intense flavor of the dish.
RESTAURANT REVIEW
Abe & Louie’s
793 Boylston St., Boston; 617-536-6300
Price: Lunch: Most items $12 and higher. Dinner, Most items $27 and higher
Sunday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to midnight
Parking on street; valet parking
Handicapped accessible
Major credit cards accepted
